Leadbetters, Stop #5, September 5, 2008

So this week, I decided to head north, not north as in Alaska, Canada, Washington or Oregon. Well, not even north enough to leave Southern California, but Santa Barbara is about 150 miles north of my house, so it qualifies, and Leadbetters was the destination. I only had 2 days to be there, so it was a monday, tuesday thing, school just started this week, so the crowds should be pretty small. When I checked the forcast, it looked like a decent swell was going to be arriving tuesday evening, so I hoped to catch some of the outer rings of that push. The drive up to Santa Barbara is pretty nice, once you leave Ventura. I stopped and looked at California St and the promise of an early pulse didn't look to great, but there where some waist high waves, but it was mid-day and blown out. When I got up to Santa Barbara, I was quickly reminded why I love that town so much. It sits nestled between the hills and the water and it is that classic California beach town. Oh, and there where some sites to be seen in and out of the water. I grabbed some grub at a local sandwich shop and headed out to the beach to wait for a sunset session. As I sat above the break and watched the guys in the water, I realized once again,that this is what its all about. The surf doesn't have to be epic, even though we live for those days. The surfer doesn't have to be highly skilled, although we all try to improve as much as possible. The thing about surfing that is more magnetic than anything I've ever done, is the energy, the fun, and the immersion into nature. When you see dolphins swimming next to you, and all that open space outside, its all a bonus to the stoke you get riding waves. I think I'd rather go deaf than not be able to surf.....and I love music!

Old Mans, Stop #4. August 15, 2008

So back in California and ready to surf in some warm water. Today we headed down to San O’ and surfed “Old Mans”. You know when spots are mentioned in Beach Boys songs, that you aren’t going to be alone. That’s the deal when you surf Old Mans. You take your long board and you just get in there. It’s one of my favorite places in Southern California. I think the reason I like it so much, is because it has the old feel that I can imagine surfing had back in the 50’s and 60’s. There are no attitudes, well mostly, there are some old guys that get grumpy, but everyone gives them a break, and ignores them. The surf wasn’t much to speak of, maybe waist high, but every time I surf there, I’m glad I went. There is just something about driving down onto the sand, and the energy of the place. At $10 a shot, I decided a few years ago to go the state park pass route, and so far this year I’ve punched that ticket 33 times. I would guess that 25 of those trips have been to San O’.
The other thing that is so great about the place is that no matter the swell direction, it will break. Last summer we had a great south swell late in the summer and I got barreled at Old mans on a 6-2, so the point is, the place is versatile and always a blast.
My friend Oliver was with me this trip and luckily for him, he’d gotten a horrible sun burn the day before. The reason I say luckily is because this was the first day this year we trunked it. The air temp was a little cooler than the water, but Olivers sun burn kept him warm!

Short Sands Oregon, Stop #3 August 2,2008

Well, in the last month I surfed quite a few times. I made a trip up to Oregon with the intention to surf a place called short sands, we used to call it shortys when I was learning to surf back in the 90’s. You know, you crank the pearl jam or Nirvana and head out to the cold as hell beach. This trip was no different. The only day I had enough time to get out there was cold, and drizzley. The waves where wind blown and choppy and in the low 50’s. So we walked down to the edge of the cliff that leads to the water and stood with our coffee in awe, and decided to leave it at that. If you’ve not been to the Oregon coast lately, make the trip. In conditions that would make crab fishermen wince, the sights are breathtaking. Rocks and trees jet out of the violent sea in way that makes me wonder how Lewis & Clark didn’t die of shock with their first look. Surf in Oregon can be great, but the problem is the weather, it doesn’t cooperate very often. Someday as an old man, I hope to have a small home with a view on the Oregon coast. I can’t imagine a better way to wake up, drink some coffee and just watch the world.

Leo Carrillo, Stop #2 July 7, 2008

So as the summer rolls on, we’ve had a bit of a dry spell as far as the swells go, but I’m not worried. Surfing in the summer, is more than just big summer swells. Summertime means camping out with friends and just getting in the water because it’s warmer.
I headed up to Malibu, just south of county line to Leo Carrillo and decided to camp out a couple nights. I arrived in the late afternoon and had to jump in the water immediately. The water was getting warmer and the conditions weren’t optimal, but it looked fun. Plus, driving up there from Orange County was a nightmare. LA traffic SUCKS!
Anyway, once I got the crowds and traffic behind me, I found myself out in the line up at this popular point break. The break is incredibly consistent, just like most rock or reef spots. The only trick here is that when the surf is less than shoulder high, you really need to sit right next to the outcropping of rocks. If you’ve never surfed this spot before, that can be kind of intimidating. I was intimidated. After watching a set roll through, and seeing the groms dive in on long sponges, I paddled into position and got my first wave. At this size, (waist to chest) the break is much more forgiving than it appears, a soft crumbly take-off, turns into a steeper wave in sections and if your timing is right, there are tube opportunities on larger waves. I joined a mixed crew out there, but all friendly, and after my session I pulled out on the rocks and just enjoyed the sunset.
Conveniently there is a campground at the park and I decided to stay the night. Camping in the car is one thing surfers around the world share in common, and this night was awesome. As I laid in the back of my 4Runner with the windows down, I heard campfires crackle, guitar players pick, and teenagers cruise the joint for summer romances. What a night.
The next morning the fog had rolled in, and the surf had died. I walked the beach to see what was around there, and to do some exploring. This time of year, seal pups are starting to cruise on their own, and I came across a little guy that needed to rest on the beach. I wanted to pet him, he reminded me of my dog!
The surf never took off that day, but later in the evening I was surprised to see a crew of 8 or so guys heading down to the beach with long sponge boards. I noticed they all had lumps in their wetsuits and quickly realized they had stashed beers in there to make up for the small surf. I’m not going to recommend drinking and surfing…..but these guys made it look pretty cool!
As I headed back to Orange County, I had to think to myself. Man, what a bummer it would be not to have access to the ocean, it brings so much to our lives. Camping, nature, friendship, excitement, and education, what else do we need?

Salt Creek. Stop #1 June 16, 2008

Summer-time. Need I say more? Every California surfer knows what summer means. Summer brings warm water, long days, no school and if you’ve already begun working for a living, it means a nasty case of the summer flu, coincidentally timed with arriving swells from the south.
This year, I’m going to do again, what we all live for. I’m going to get up early, and stay up late, and I’m going to sleep in my car. I’m going to wear 45, and I’m still going to get burned. I’m going to hit all my local spots on good days, and I’m going to visit friends at theirs. I’m going to get my share of good surf this summer, because that’s what we do, as surfers. The difference this year is that I’m going to share my adventure with you. I’m going to document it. Here we go.


Well, this week is the last week of school for local groms, and next week at this time, the waves at all the hotspots will be packed. But today, the weather is warm and it feels like summer, without the crowds. My home base is in Orange County, so I’m headed to Salt Creek to get my journey started.
Oh yeah, one other thing that comes with summer, parking patrol is enforced. I have to remember singles this year.
What a day, the water still has a touch of chill to it, but it's warm, and there are a bunch of guys trunkn’ it. Occasional pulses that are near head high are keeping the young rippers flying, I’m sure there are multiple shots heading to the magazines today. There are a few photogs in the water, and a few on the beach, and about every 5th ride-able wave has a face on it you’d recognize. Also mixed in the crowd, that’s still light for the conditions, are a few older locals, some young groms, and some young kids playing in the white wash. But the waves are plenty and the vibe is pretty chill. At any given time, Salt creek can be a great representation of the California surfer.
So I got my share of waves, and as I was walking up the hill to the parking lot, I paid attention. I paid attention to all the guys just getting out of school, or off work, and running down the hill. They are doing exactly what I’m doing. I don’t know them, they don’t know me, but we all share a bond. We share the stoke.
This summer is going to be like all those earlier ones, I’m going to learn a lot, I’m going to surf a bunch, and when the days get shorter, I’ll look back on this summer with the documents to prove, that we did it again.