So as the summer rolls on, we’ve had a bit of a dry spell as far as the swells go, but I’m not worried. Surfing in the summer, is more than just big summer swells. Summertime means camping out with friends and just getting in the water because it’s warmer.
I headed up to Malibu, just south of county line to Leo Carrillo and decided to camp out a couple nights. I arrived in the late afternoon and had to jump in the water immediately. The water was getting warmer and the conditions weren’t optimal, but it looked fun. Plus, driving up there from Orange County was a nightmare. LA traffic SUCKS!
Anyway, once I got the crowds and traffic behind me, I found myself out in the line up at this popular point break. The break is incredibly consistent, just like most rock or reef spots. The only trick here is that when the surf is less than shoulder high, you really need to sit right next to the outcropping of rocks. If you’ve never surfed this spot before, that can be kind of intimidating. I was intimidated. After watching a set roll through, and seeing the groms dive in on long sponges, I paddled into position and got my first wave. At this size, (waist to chest) the break is much more forgiving than it appears, a soft crumbly take-off, turns into a steeper wave in sections and if your timing is right, there are tube opportunities on larger waves. I joined a mixed crew out there, but all friendly, and after my session I pulled out on the rocks and just enjoyed the sunset.
Conveniently there is a campground at the park and I decided to stay the night. Camping in the car is one thing surfers around the world share in common, and this night was awesome. As I laid in the back of my 4Runner with the windows down, I heard campfires crackle, guitar players pick, and teenagers cruise the joint for summer romances. What a night.
The next morning the fog had rolled in, and the surf had died. I walked the beach to see what was around there, and to do some exploring. This time of year, seal pups are starting to cruise on their own, and I came across a little guy that needed to rest on the beach. I wanted to pet him, he reminded me of my dog!
The surf never took off that day, but later in the evening I was surprised to see a crew of 8 or so guys heading down to the beach with long sponge boards. I noticed they all had lumps in their wetsuits and quickly realized they had stashed beers in there to make up for the small surf. I’m not going to recommend drinking and surfing…..but these guys made it look pretty cool!
As I headed back to Orange County, I had to think to myself. Man, what a bummer it would be not to have access to the ocean, it brings so much to our lives. Camping, nature, friendship, excitement, and education, what else do we need?
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